Cook! For Goodness Sake!

Oh, The Things You Can Do With Fennel

Photo by Linda Garrettson

By Linda Garrettson, Good Natured Cooking™

There’s limited space in my vegetable garden. My two small raised beds must be planned carefully to avoid overcrowding, while still providing a diversity of plants. I always stock up on a good variety of leafy greens, peas, cucumbers and lettuce, but what about that fennel I saw at the garden store? There were only four plants in the pack. They grow tall and straight; how much space could they possibly take up?

Then the memory of fragrant anise, fennel chutney and fennel seed pizza overtook me. Add in fennel tea, new to my arsenal of medicinal brews, and my decision to plant fennel this year was made.

To my surprise, fennel won the season’s beauty, talent and obedience contests. The fronds waved in the wind like conductors leading an orchestra. They drooped from the soaking rains but always snapped back into formation like soldiers in dress uniform—spiffed up and at attention. Each bulb was perfect pearly white with no bruises, the fronds a brilliant green.

I am so awed by the miracle of what comes out of dirt that I often hate to pick my vegetables. The fennel never seemed to peak; it just got bigger and more beautiful. Finally, I picked the first one.

It immediately went into a salad of assorted greens with cucumbers and sprouts. Oh, that crunch, and oh, that hint of licorice. My green salads never had it so good. The thrill of it instantly inspired more recipes. What about fennel coleslaw, caramelized fennel or fennel frond pesto? And what about—Oh Glorioso!—pizza with fennel frond pesto topped with caramelized fennel? (A nod here to Ann Gill, who had a way of using this phrase at the exact right moment, eternally reminding me to do the same. Here’s to Ann, and here’s to Oh Glorioso pizza.)

Fennel plants two and three went into the following recipes. Who knows what awaits number four, but in the meantime, I am still enjoying its beauty and, now, endurance.

Fennel Coleslaw

Ingredients:
1 large carrot, cut into matchsticks
1 cup Napa cabbage, finely sliced
1 cup radicchio, finely sliced
2 cups fennel, cut into matchsticks
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Options: red or daikon radishes, red peppers

Fennel Frond Mayonnaise

1-12 oz. box of Mori Nu firm silken tofu (regular silken tofu is fine, but drain it fully or the mayo will be runny.)
2 tbsp. lemon juice
1 tbsp. pure maple syrup
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
Sea salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
Pinch of cayenne pepper

Combine all in a food processor and blend until creamy. Makes 1½ cups.

Method:
Toss the vegetables with the lemon juice and set aside while you make the dressing. Add the mayonnaise to the vegetables, ½ cup at a time, until the coleslaw meets your creamiest desires. Save any leftovers and use as you would any mayo. Dip your baked sweet potato fries in it. Stir it into a mock chicken salad.

Caramelized Fennel

Slice the bulb of a fennel plant into matchsticks. Add a little vegetable broth to a frying pan, stir in the fennel and sauté over medium-high heat. Add a few pinches of sea salt. Stir often until the fennel is soft and golden brown.

Fennel Frond Pesto

2 lemons, juice and zest
4 cups fennel fronds, discard the thick stems
½ cup pumpkin, sunflower or hemp seeds
Pinch of sea salt

Combine all in a food processor and blend to a fine chop. It can be a little chunky. Makes 1½ cups.

Fennel Pizza

Spread the fennel pesto on your favorite pizza crust or make your own. Top with the caramelized fennel. Sprinkle on a few pinches of sea salt and crushed fennel seeds. Bake at 400 degrees for five minutes or until crispy.

Option: Try caramelized onions or leeks with the fennel.

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