A good neighbor, Infinity Bistro moves in to town

By Rosanna Trestman

“Pinch me, I can’t believe I’m in Norfolk,” is the exclamation, in so many words, of every townsperson who has had the pleasure of dining at the newly opened Infinity Bistro on Greenwoods Road. However incongruous at present, owner Dan Hincks would like see the Bistro settle into a Norfolk institution. He’s on the right track. While unusually sophisticated for Norfolk, it isn’t an over polished work of anonymous developer. Rather, the amiable Infinity team has, from the start, engaged the people of Norfolk, who will be the lifeblood of the Bistro. “We use local products and hire townspeople as much as possible,” says Hincks, “It’s the right thing to do. As we get to know each other, people become invested in the place, like stakeholders.” Infinity Bistro opened amid a flurry of new dining spots in town, but Hincks sees the competition as an asset, “The more successful businesses in Norfolk, the more people will see it as a destination.” On a personal level, he characterized his growing rapport with the owners of the new Pub as “anytime you want to borrow an egg, come on over.” Isabelle Menozzi, the general manager of the entire Infinity operation, is joined by Restaurant Manager, Sally Juliano, ( name COMING) and Chef Dan [Fortin] (distinguishing him from Dan Hincks) in running the restaurant. With more than 20 years of food service experience apiece, the team of four collaborates on menu decisions, serving pieces and every detail in between. They went to the expense of upsizing the plates to accommodate the chef’s generous portions. “We made an effort to select draft beers and wines which are consistent with the concept of the restaurant,” Menozzi points out. That decision was informed by the Bistro’s commitment to using fresh, unprocessed ingredients, and, again, to keep it local whenever possible. Of the two drafts crafted at New England microbreweries, one is organic, and the wines come from biodynamic vineyards. “They have no additives, so you can taste the freshness…kind of like our food,” she says with a smile. Hinck’s background is in printing, not in food service, but he realized that he would have to be a restaurateur to ensure Infinity Hall’s financial success in such a remote location. “For the theater to be a destination,” he says, “it was necessary to have a restaurant, making it a two stop night and worth the drive.” Proving his point, tables are full before a show and the bar is hot after the curtain goes down, but weeknights can still be slow. Now he needs the Bistro to be completely independent of the Music Hall, as the theater isn’t open every night. The Bistro has covered as many bases as possible when it comes to pleasing the customer. There is a variety of seating for every taste. One might sit beneath the coved tin ceiling, which is the vibrant core of the dining room (though not the place to have an intimate conversation). Conversely, the serene dining area overlooking the town meadow feels open and airy with its tall ceilings and widely spaced tables. There’s a sidewalk café, indoor tables overlooking the sidewalk and, of course, the bar – a long slab of lacquered ___coming_ , and backlit bottles, cultivating the air of an upscale saloon. The full menu is available everywhere, including the mezzanine of the theater where “runners” deliver meals while still hot. The menu is as varied as the seating arrangements. Chef Fortin labels his cuisine as “Progressive American,” which sounds about right. The exotic-sounding preparations should not put off the timid diner. Dishes, from calamari (lightly fried, small and tender) to a traditional, okay, grass-fed, burger, are more straightforward. For the casual diner with a casual budget there’s a wide variety of sandwiches and salads. Across the board, the food is expertly prepared. A work in progress, Hincks is eager for feedback and diligently working out the kinks. He has learned that, on occasion, the music is cranked up too high for some customers. Also, there have been complaints of excess noise under the tin ceiling in the central dining room. Hincks is on it, looking into carpeting and more textiles to absorb sound. Live rock and roll after hours is under review. In fact, everything is under review: kid’s menus, dancing, wine dinners, box lunches, half portions, and WiFi. Producing a stack of customer response cards, Hincks, with all sincerity, repeats his mantra: “Ultimately, we want to give the people what they want.”