Notes From a French Kitchen

By Marie-Christine Perry

In winter, citrus is king. Oranges, tangerines, lemons, limes, grapefruit and a few hybrids are displayed in our markets in great colorful pyramids, ready for eating out of hand, but also offering us chances to transform our meals into memorable winter feasts.

I saw, and bought the first blood oranges today. As I stocked up, I started thinking of a Moroccan blood orange salad with Kalamata olives and finely sliced red onions, and my mind kept going…
Citrus fruits are so versatile and can grace our tables in many guises, from freshly pressed juice to savory or dessert salads; from cakes and tarts to a flavorful glaze on butter cookies. They also are a staple in a well-thought-out pantry: marmalade, curd, preserved lemons, candied peel or simple syrup, with as many hues and flavors as there are different citrus.

Besides the health benefits they bring to our diet, citrus fruits delight with their freshness and vibrant colors and can add a delicate acidity to winter salads. Here are some of my favorite recipes.

Moroccan Blood Orange Salad

Ingredients:
3 or 4 blood oranges, peeled and sliced
1/2 to 1 red onion, finely sliced
1 handful Kalamata olives (12 or so)
4 to 5 tbsp olive oil
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime
Sea salt
1 tsp cumin seeds, roasted
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1 small bunch cilantro or parsley, coarsely chopped
1 fennel bulb, finely sliced (optional)
Method:

Arrange the citrus and fennel slices (if using) on a platter. Scatter the sliced red onion and the olives on top. Mix olive oil, lime juice and salt, and gently pour over the salad. Make an hour ahead of serving and refrigerate for flavors to infuse.

Gluten-Free Whole Orange Almond Sicilian Cake

Made with whole oranges, this gluten-free almond cake is moist, delicious and perfect for tea time or dessert, served with a scoop of ice cream or a dollop of cream.

I remember my Sicilian friends who grew their own oranges and kept them fresh for months nestled in crates full of sand!

Ingredients:
2 oranges
6 eggs
1¼ cup sugar
2½ cups ground almonds/almond flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
½ cup flaked almonds
Method:

Wash the oranges and place them in a pot of water. Boil the oranges gently for two hours or until very soft. Remove from the pot, and when cool, cut into chunks, removing the seeds. Transfer to a blender and blend until smooth. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and line a nine-inch spring-form cake pan with parchment paper. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the eggs and sugar for three to five minutes or until pale and voluminous. Add the orange purée, ground almonds, vanilla, baking powder and salt and whip for another one to two minutes or until all the ingredients are combined. Transfer the batter to the prepared cake pan. Scatter the flaked almonds over the top and bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until the cake is golden brown and a skewer inserted comes out clean. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before slicing and serving.

Finally, something for the pantry: preserved lemons.

Preserved Lemons

If you have never had preserved lemons, they are a wonderful Moroccan condiment. Great in traditional Moroccan dishes like tagines, roasted chicken or steamed fish, they are also delightful on grilled or steamed vegetables, salads, salsa and dips. You can use them anywhere lemon zest is called for, and do not shy away from experimenting! This is a recipe for a medium jar (12 ounce or so).

Ingredients:

4 to 6 organic lemons (regular or Meyer), scrubbed clean and dried
1/2 cup sea salt or kosher salt (or more depending on quantity of lemons)
Additional fresh lemon juice
1 sterilized 12-ounce glass jar (you can also just run it through a cycle in your dishwasher, which is what I do)

Method:

Add about 2 tablespoons of salt to the bottom of the jar. Cut any protruding stems from the lemons and cut each into quarters the traditional Moroccan way (do not cut all the way through so as not to separate the quarters.) Pry open the lemon, stuff it with salt then squeeze it shut and add it to the jar.
After the first cut lemon is in the jar, add more salt on top (a tablespoon or so). Using the back of a spoon, mash the lemon down to release the juices.

Continue adding more lemons with salt between each layer and continue mashing it down so the juices rise to the top. Pack the jar with as many lemons as you can squeeze in. Cover with more fresh lemon juice, if needed. The lemons should be below the liquid line, with a small amount of space at the top of the jar. Add additional salt to fill the jar.

Allow the jar to sit at room temperature in a cool dark place for a couple of days. Turn it upside down occasionally and press the lemons down once a day to make sure they’re sitting below the lemon juice, to ensure preservation. After a few days, if you need to add more lemon juice, go ahead. Transfer the jar to the refrigerator and leave it there for at least three weeks until the rinds soften. Shake and rotate the jar every day to redistribute the salt. If a piece of lemon is not covered by juice, it can develop a white mold that is harmless and just needs to be washed off.

Once the lemons are ready, pull one (or more) out, and rinse thoroughly in water to remove excess salt and any seeds. Chop the peel into small pieces or cut into thin strips. The flesh can sometimes be too salty, but it often can be used in sauces, tagines or soups.

Bon appétit!