Notes from a French Kitchen
Celebrating Holidays Across Cultures
By Marie-Christine Perry
Knowing that the Norfolk Historical Society cake auction is fast approaching, I have been musing about cultural celebrations and the foods associated with them. Because I am part of a bi-national household with three religious traditions (Jewish, Catholic and Buddhist), I have the immense joy to partake in a multitude of food-related events. This year, we will celebrate both Christmas and Chanukah on Dec. 25, timing that calls for a carefully elaborated menu for the coming holidays.
Breakfast will be a nod to the Chanukah miracle of the oil lamps. They burned for eight days in the Holy Temple in Jerusalem despite there being enough oil to burn for only a day. We will have “sufganiyot,” the traditional jelly-filled beignet.
Latkes served with sour cream and a sauce of sour cherry and cranberry be part of Christmas dinner. Ours will be a sweet potato version to accompany a rack of lamb studded with garlic cloves. The vegetable side will be acorn squash “au four,” each half filled with a medley of sautéed maple bacon from Nodine’s, chestnuts from Freund’s leeks from my plot at the Botelle Elementary School community garden and mushrooms. A green salad dressed with vinaigrette and a cheese platter assembled from the array of cheeses at Guido’s will round out the meal in the French tradition. Of course, Bûche de Noël will be served for dessert.
I will serve a Pinot Noir from Millbrook winery with this meal with Champagne to accompany the bûche! Whatever holiday you celebrate, Bon Appétit!
Sweet-Potato Latkes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings (20 to 24, 2-inch latkes)
Ingredients
2 ½ lbs sweet potatoes, peeled and grated
1 large onion, grated or finely chopped
½ cup chopped fresh dill or fresh parsley
3 tsp matzoh meal, panko or unseasoned breadcrumbs
1 tsp corn starch*
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 large eggs
Vegetable oil for frying (I prefer peanut oil)
Method
- Place the sweet potatoes and onions in a kitchen cloth over the sink and squeeze to remove as much moisture as possible. Place in a bowl, add all other ingredients and mix thoroughly.
- Test by putting a scant ¼ cup of the mixture in the palm or your hand. If it sticks together, form the rest of the mixture into 2-inch cakes. If not, add another egg and another teaspoon of corn starch before forming the cakes.
- Heat a half inch of oil in a medium, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Place the cakes in the hot oil and fry until golden on one side. Flip with spatula and cook the other side until golden. Place the cakes on a baking sheet and keep warm in a 200-degree oven while frying the rest of the cakes.
- Serve hot with sour cream and a fruity sauce. Apple sauce is traditional, but experiment! I canned my own sauce with cranberries and sour cherries from the garden).
* Cornstarch substitutes for the natural starch produced by white potatoes.
Stuffed Acorn Squash
Yield: 4 servings (half an acorn squash per person)
2 acorn squashes
4 strips Nodine’s maple bacon, minced
4 medium leeks, white and light green only, minced (keep dark leaves for making broth)
2 to 3 oz mushrooms, minced
7 oz chestnuts* chopped
4 tsp panko or homemade breadcrumbs per person
4 tsp grated Parmigiano per person
Butter
Salt and freshly grated black pepper
Method
- Cut the squash in half. Salt and pepper cavities, put a walnut size piece of butter in each, and place the half-squashes on a tray in a 350-degree oven. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until flesh is cooked.
- While the squash bake, melt the bacon until golden in a medium skillet; add the leeks and sauté until translucent. Add the mushrooms and chestnuts and lightly cook. Stir in breadcrumbs.
- Stuff the cooked squash halves with the mixture, topping with the Parmigiano. Return to the oven and cook until the cheese is golden.
* Frozen chestnuts are available from Freund’s Farm Market in North Canaan. You can also use Galil organic roasted chestnuts available at the supermarket.