By Marie-Christine Perry

The very versatile watermelon enchants our summers: eaten out of hand or in drinks, sorbets, salads and condiments, it refreshes during hot spells and pleases the palate with its discreet flavor.

Watermelon agua fresca, a Mexican favorite, is very simple to make:

Process four cups of cubed and seeded watermelon in a blender with half a cup of water, add raw sugar to taste. Put a slice of lime and three mint leaves in a glass, crush them together with a cocktail muddler to release juices, fill the glass with ice, pour the watermelon liquid over the ice and serve!

Another summer favorite is watermelon salad with feta, where the slightly salty cheese counterbalances the sweetness of the watermelon. I used to make this salad with a dressing (simple vinaigrette), but I now just toss watermelon cubes in a bowl with crumbled feta and crushed mint leaves before serving. I use French feta (Valbreso, available recently at Freund’s market), as it is the only 100 percent ewe’s milk feta. It is incredibly creamy and not too salty.

As for condiments, I am partial to watermelon rind pickle, which works well with a rare magret de canard and a ploughman’s lunch of cheeses, homemade sourdough bread and charcuterie.

I also love that I can use the entire fruit—I am thrifty that way!

When making the watermelon and feta salad, slice up the watermelon, separating the white (pith) and green (rind) from the red part. (If I am not ready to make the watermelon rind pickle at this stage, I freeze the cubed rind until needed). Have a great refreshing summer, with watermelon, and of course, bon appétit!

WATERMELON RIND PICKLE

Ingredients

• 3 cups watermelon rind
• 1.5 cups sugar
• 4-5 strips lemon peel
• 1/4 cup lemon juice
• 1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthways and seeds scraped
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 cloves

Method

Cut the watermelon rind into 1-inch cubes and combine the amount of fruit you have with half its amount of sugar (I use raw sugar). Leave this to macerate for a few hours or overnight at room temperature—the watermelon and sugar will develop a syrup.

Set to simmer, stirring to dissolve all of the sugar. Then add the remaining ingredients of the lemon juice and peel, the vanilla bean, cinnamon stick and cloves. Simmer for two hours covered; for the last 15 minutes take the cover off to reduce the syrup. It is done when the cubes are translucent. While still hot, ladle into sterilized jars* and then tighten lid (using a tea towel, as the jar will be hot). Turn upside down for a minute to create a seal and then place right side up.

The sauces are just an indication; I vary what I use, loving cardamon in particular, or the rind of any citrus.