Rhubarb Heralds the Spring

By Marie-Christine Perry

The first edible in my garden is usually rhubarb, followed quickly by asparagus, both valued in my kitchen—fresh and preserved!

Beyond the celebrated strawberry rhubarb pie, I like rhubarb in many guises: in compote, jam, chutney and cake, but also in unexpected savory dishes, where its acidity is welcomed. Here are some of my favorite ways to use rhubarb: rhubarb compote, magret of duck with South Indian rhubarb chutney and rhubarb cake.

For all recipes, you can (or not) peel the rhubarb. I use it whole, after washing the stems, which preserves the lovely pink it takes when heated, as I find that the skin fibers melt easily when rhubarb is fresh from the garden. For the following recipes, you can adapt easily by multiplying ingredients to larger quantities and adding or subtracting to taste.

I chop the stems in two-inch segments to make compote, adding to my three-quart Staub pot two parts rhubarb to one part raw sugar as measured in pounds, a “glouglou” of vanilla extract (no measuring, just a pour from the bottle), and a bit of good apple cider—not enough to cover, just to keep the mixture wet. When wanting that extra “je ne sais quoi,” I add a good measure of Cognac, Armagnac or even Bourbon. Then I cook until tender with the liquids reduced, refrigerate, and I have an easy, sophisticated dessert I serve in vintage champagne cups. This compote freezes well, and I make it often as I pick stems, which is almost daily.

I am also quite partial to chutneys of any kind, as a condiment to accompany not only Indian food, which I love, but all manner of dishes. For a South Indian style of chutney, you will need four or five stalks of rhubarb chopped into one-inch segments, one cup raw sugar, two tablespoons of peanut oil, 1/4 tsp. mustard seeds, 1/4 tsp. fenugreek seeds, 3/4 tsp. curry leaves, 1 tsp. red chili powder (more if you like it very spicy), 1/2 tsp. turmeric powder, a pinch of asafoetida, salt to taste.

In a heavy bottomed pot (I use one of my LeCreuset or Staub pots for all jam and chutney making) roast seeds and curry leaves carefully in the oil, making sure you roast but not burn them (fenugreek will turn bitter if burned even slightly), then add the powdered spices, stir, and add rhubarb, sugar and salt. Mix well and cook 20 to 30 minutes on low flame until rhubarb is cooked and coated with spices.

Chutney is done when rhubarb has broken down and oil separates from mixture. Add mixture to clean jar and refrigerate. This is lovely with roasted meat, duck in particular. I cook the magret or duck breast very rare and serve with chopped fresh mango and rhubarb chutney.

And in honor of Norfolk Norwegian history, here is a recipe for Rabarbrakake, a Norwegian rhubarb cake (I lived in Norway for a year and a half, years and years ago):

Ingredients

• 150 grams butter
• 150 grams sugar
• 2 eggs
• 200 grams flour
• 1-1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 cup milk
• 2 cups rhubarb cut into 1/2 inch cubes
• 2 tbsp sugar
• 2 tbsp slivered almonds

Method

Preheat oven to 3500, butter an 8-inch round cake tin or springform pan. Beat butter and sugar together, add eggs and continue to beat, add flour, baking powder and whole milk and blend together, pour batter into prepared cake tin. Place rhubarb pieces on top of dough without any overlapping, trying to make a nice pattern, pressing them slightly into the dough. Sprinkle the sugar and almonds on top.

Bake for 30-40 minutes, let cool slightly before removing from cake tin. Serve warm with whipped cream or icecream, and enjoy with coffee!

Whether fresh from your garden or from a local market, make sure rhubarb is on your table one way or another this spring! Bon appétit!